04 - Explore

აღმოაჩინე

Explore

Tbilisi and beyond

You are in Tbilisi. Here is the story about it.

Bedtime Legend About Tbilisi

Vakhtang Gorgasali was hunting.

His falcon was chasing a pheasant. The pheasant fell into something warm - a thermal spring, steaming quietly in the middle of a forest - and never came out. The king walked over and found the bird cooked. The water was boiling up from somewhere underground.

He looked at that place and understood something.

He called it Tbilisi. In Georgian, tbili means warm. The hot water was already there, rising from the earth. The city just grew around it.

That was the 5th century. More or less.

1,500 years later

Those thermal springs Vakhtang found are still there.

The Abanotubani district - which translates roughly as "bathhouse district" - is a cluster of domed brick buildings sitting over the same underground springs. You go in. You sweat. You get scrubbed by someone who takes their job extremely seriously. You come out a completely different version of yourself. Slightly dazed. Completely clean.

Alexander Dumas visited the baths in 1858 and declared them the best bath he had ever taken. He was quite a traveler. This is worth noting.

Tbilisi old town - building perched on the cliff above the Narikala river

Kala District · Old Town · Tbilisi

The Balconies

In the city

What to Do

01

The Balconies Walk

From the sulfur baths, a path climbs into the hills above Abanotubani. Follow it. You end up at a park with a waterfall. Look at the carved wooden balconies along the way - faded paint, structurally questionable, always beautiful. Some restored. Others surviving on stubbornness and old wood.

02

Mtatsminda

Skip the rooftop bars. Take the funicular up the sacred mountain. The view over the city is worth the ride alone. If you are hungry up there: Ponchiki (Georgian doughnuts) and Lagidze Water. Very 1980s in the best way.

You will be here on September 25. This is where the wedding reception is.

03

Chronicles of Georgia

You need to drive. It is worth it. Sixteen enormous stone pillars on the city outskirts, carved with Georgian history and mythology. Started in the Soviet era, never officially finished. The scale is something you cannot prepare for. Most tourists miss it. That is their loss.

A local habit

The Lakes

Locals do this morning, evening, late night. Not a destination. A habit.

Kus Tba

Turtle Lake

Closer, smaller. Walkable from Vake. People circle it at all hours - talking, sitting on the banks, letting the evening go wherever it goes. The city lights are below you.

Turtle Lake

Google Maps

Lisis Tba

Lisi Lake

Bigger. Better views. Further out. The whole city ends up here on warm evenings. A full loop is 3km and worth every minute.

Lisi Lake

Google Maps

The character of the city

These suggestions are truly things we have done and would repeat.

Some people love it immediately. Some people need a day before it lands.

Beyond the city

მოგზაურობა

Day Trips

Leave the city. Even for a day. Three trips. Each one a different Georgia.

North · ~150 km

Easiest

Kazbegi

The Georgian Military Highway goes north. The mountains get serious fast. Gergeti Trinity Church on the ridge. Kazbek behind it. You have seen this view before and it will still surprise you.

Stay: Rooms Hotel Kazbegi

Stepantsminda

Google Maps

South · ~230 km

Ambitious

Vardzia

12th-century cave monastery. Over 3,000 rooms cut into rock. Queen Tamar built it. Most visitors to Georgia miss it entirely. Sofi's home region - the food is different here. Eat something local.

Best as an overnight trip.

Vardzia

Google Maps

East · ~100 km

Easy

Kakheti

Georgian wine country. September is Rtveli - the harvest. Crush grapes. Drink from a horn. Watch the Qvevri being filled. This is not a tourist activity.